Tailoring

Formal workwear like suiting is as common to the female wardrobe as denim. After again browsing the autumn/winter lookbook of Rokit vintage i found tailoring to feature, but only to mens attire. Researching designer takes on Androgyny i wasn't surprised to find the likes of Paul Smith - who regularly dips into the likes of masculinity for ladieswear - to have neat cut tailoring feature in his items to stream the runway come October. It could be argued that the classic Chanel Jacket was a take on masculinity but made feminine with tweedy fabrics.

I wore tailoring firstly with this blazer. Bought overseas its greatly representative of old fashioned and traditional masculine cuts. The buttons, collar and lapels are all satin in contrast to the polyester mix body. The shoulders are given support with padding to create a more angled and masculine shape, its also streamline with no give to the bust or darting. However it was the pockets that gave essence of hunting jackets, generally worn by males, where the pockets were placed high with no intent to be forgiving to the hips. This blazer is great and current despite being second hand.

Another i have is less sleek, this cropped jacket is navy with a grey lining, quite a box shape like the Chanel jacket previously described. The age of this jacket really attracted me to it, the label was actually a list where the material content was written, rather than printed as a component. This is possibly an indicator of it being handmade, maybe even that of made to measure. Regardless, the cuff and collar give this the great smartness of tailoring, to rival that of Celine and YSL this fall.

Celine Fall 2011 VOGUE


garments: vintage leggings: H&M